Bringing a new puppy home involves making a lot of decisions. Where will the puppy sleep? What happens when you need to leave the house? How will you prevent chewing and accidents when you can't supervise? For many guardians, a crate is part of the answer.
 
A crate can be a useful tool for housebreaking, travel, veterinary visits, preventing destructive behaviour and providing a quiet place for a puppy to rest. When introduced gradually and positively, many puppies become comfortable using one, but there's something I think every puppy guardian should know R1) (R2). You do not have to crate your puppy to raise a well-trained dog. Some puppies love crates, while others are much happier in an exercise pen, puppy-proofed room or gated section of the house. The best choice is the one that keeps your puppy safe while also protecting its need for mental stimulation and emotional wellbeing.

A puppy in its new home has just experienced an enormous change. It left its mother and littermates to move to an unfamiliar environment, and finds itself surrounded by new people, sights, sounds, smells and possibly other animals. Now imagine how the puppy feels when it suddenly finds itself isolated in a crate with no one around. Although some puppies adjust surprisingly well, many don't. Some will whine, bark, frantically scratch at the door, pant, drool and attempt to escape. This is not a puppy being stubborn or disobedient, it’s a puppy panicking due to emotional distress (R2) (R3).
 
Positive puppy training focuses on understanding what the puppy is experiencing and adjusting your training plan to meet its emotional needs instead of forcing it to endure upsetting experiences. Humane training focuses on setting the puppy up for success while eliminating unnecessary suffering (R1). For more information about positive training see my article Positive Dog Training: The Science, Ethics & Proven Results.

Puppies explore their world with their mouths the way children use their hands. Electrical cords, shoes, furniture, children’s toys – in fact, anything within reach can become a chew toy for a curious puppy. When you can’t supervise your puppy, a crate can help prevent it from chewing something dangerous or practising unwanted behaviours. When introduced and used properly, a crate can provide a comfortable, secure place to sleep, relax and enjoy appropriate chew items (R4) (R7).
 
A crate can also be helpful during house training. Because most puppies naturally avoid soiling their sleeping area, crating for short periods of time can help prevent accidents in the house while the puppy learns where to eliminate.
 
A crate should only be used as a management tool and never as a copout to replace our responsibilities. It should never become a substitute for supervision, training, exercise, enrichment, socialization and interaction with the family, and it should never be used too long in one session or for the life of the dog.

Never force the puppy into the crate. Start with the door open and let your puppy investigate without any pressure. Toss treats around the entrance and then inside and feed meals in the crate. Put comfortable bedding inside (if your puppy won't chew it), and provide safe toys and something enjoyable to chew on. Once your puppy is happily entering on its own, begin closing the door for very short periods of time and open it again before the puppy becomes distressed. Gradually increase the length of time the door remains closed, while always letting it out before it gets upset. This method combines desensitization with counter-conditioning, which means exposure is introduced gradually while the puppy develops a positive emotional association with the experience. Remember to always let your puppy set the pace (R2) (R3).

There's a difference between a puppy complaining because it would rather be with you or out playing and one experiencing significant fear or anxiety.
 
Behaviours that indicate a distressed puppy are:

• Frantic escape attempts
• Excessive panting
• Drooling
• Distress vocalization (barking or whining)
• Refusing food or an enjoyable chew while in the crate
• Diarrhea
• Refusing to enter the crate
• Escalating rather than settling

 
These behaviours need to be acknowledged, and distress should never be ignored in the hope that the puppy will eventually give up. If your puppy is distressed, change your plan (R2) (R3). For more information about stress and anxiety see my article entitled Stress & Anxiety In Dogs: How To Cure Stress & Anxiety While Protecting Your Dog’s Emotional Wellbeing.

​One of my favourite alternatives to a crate is an exercise pen, or X-pen. In fact, I use them in my school when a puppy in class needs space from the other puppies. Exercise pens come in a variety of sizes and consist of eight connected panels that can be arranged in different shapes and configurations to suit the available space. They also fold flat, making them convenient to store when not in use. An exercise pen gives a puppy room to stand, stretch, change sleeping positions, play and chew while preventing unrestricted access to the house. Exercise pens are commonly used for positive puppy management and early training (R4).
 
I learned just how valuable this option could be with my own puppy, Tala. When I initially confined him to a small comfortable space with his favourite chews, he panicked – crying and trying to escape. Rather than forcing him “get used to it,” I changed my setup. Using an exercise pen, I blocked off a larger, puppy proofed area using my kitchen and hallway, and provided him with his bed, toys, a bully stick and frozen stuffed kong to chew on. He settled immediately proving that in his case, he just needed more space.

​Some puppies can be safely left in a puppy-proofed kitchen, laundry room, hallway or other gated area. Puppy proofing involves remove electrical cords, plants, medications, garbage, cleaning products, absolutely everything the puppy could possibly chew or swallow. If these objects are under a counter in the puppy’s enclosed area, child-proof safety locks for cabinets can be used to prevent access. You can use exercise pens not only to block the exit but also to protect cabinetry, walls or furniture if necessary. The idea is simple, instead of waiting for the puppy to make a mistake, control the environment so the only options are correct choices.

No. A crate can certainly be helpful, but successful housebreaking depends more on supervision to prevent accidents, taking the puppy outside frequently, teaching it to tell you when it needs to go out and rewarding elimination in the appropriate location. Confining your puppy or leaving it outside for long periods of time without a housebreaking program will not be successful. Puppies learns through repetition and good habits are just as hard to break as bad ones.
 
An exercise pen or blocked off area can work well during housebreaking, particularly for very young puppies that are still developing bladder control. Newspapers or pee pads can be used temporarily in these spaces to prevent accidents on the floor. As reliability improves, the newspapers or pee pads gradually disappear, while over time, the puppy earns more freedom (R1) (R4). For more information about house training your puppy see my article Potty Training A Puppy – The Ultimate Step-By-Step Guide.

Puppies need to learn some independence however, they’re social animals and should not routinely spend long periods of time isolated or confined. Using desensitization and counter conditioning, I gradually teach my puppies to feel comfortable on their own. For any dog that’s confined, I use approximately four hours as my upper limit, but only after they’ve become comfortable being confined for that length of time. If you need to be away longer, having a trusted friend, family member or professional take your puppy outside to eliminate and play with it or take it for a walk, can help prevent accidents in the crate as well as pent up stress and anxiety. As your puppy matures, becomes reliably house trained and no longer chews inappropriate objects, it can gradually be given more freedom in the home until it eventually earns access to most of the house.

So far, your puppy has spent its entire life sleeping beside its mother and littermates, meaning that suddenly sleeping alone in a strange house can be  very upsetting. Keeping your puppy's crate, pen or sleeping area near your bed can make the transition much easier. Some puppies sleep through the night almost immediately, while others need night time bathroom breaks. If your puppy wakes up and needs to eliminate, keep the trip quiet and uneventful. Take the puppy outside, calmly reward successful elimination and go back to bed. As bladder control strengthens, night time trips usually become less frequent. For more information about sleeping through the night see my article entitled How To Teach A Puppy To Sleep Through The Night: Proven Tips For Restful Sleep.

A more important question to ask is what you want long term. Dogs learn patterns and routines and changing them can cause stress and anxiety, which can lead to behaviour problems and compromise emotional wellbeing. Because of this, it's better to establish the sleeping arrangement you want for the rest of your dog’s life from the onset, instead of introducing a routine and changing it later (R3) (R6). Although many have strong opinions about this, my opinion is that it’s always a personal choice. Our dogs are allowed to sleep in our bed if they so choose, so our puppies are on the bed from the day they come home. To set us up for success we put little bells on their collars so if they wake up we can take them out to prevent accidents on the bed, and after decades of raising many puppies, we’ve never had one.

One of the most important things I've learned after all these years is that every puppy is unique and one cookie cutter solution does not fit all. A crate should provide safety and management and not become a place where a frightened puppy is expected to endure distress. Our ultimate goal isn't to raise a dog that can live in a crate, it's to raise a confident, independent and well-behaved dog that eventually doesn't need one.

(R1) American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior (AVSAB). Humane Dog Training Position Statement.
(R2) Yin, S. (2009). Low Stress Handling, Restraint and Behavior Modification of Dogs & Cats. CattleDog Publishing.
(R3) Overall, K. L. (2013). Manual of Clinical Behavioral Medicine for Dogs and Cats. Elsevier.
(R4) Dunbar, I. (2003). Before & After Getting Your Puppy: The Positive Approach to Raising a Happy, Healthy, Well-Behaved Dog. New World Library.
(R5) Herron, M. E., Shofer, F. S., & Reisner, I. R. (2009). Survey of the use and outcome of confrontational and non-confrontational training methods in client-owned dogs showing undesirable behaviors. Applied Animal Behaviour Science, 117(1–2), 47–54.
(R6) Bradshaw, J. (2011). Dog Sense: How the New Science of Dog Behavior Can Make You a Better Friend to Your Pet. Basic Books.
(R7) VCA Animal Hospitals. Crate Training Your Puppy.

​Photo By Norma Jeanne Laurette

Potty training is one of the first and most important lessons your puppy will learn. Puppies don't instinctively know where you want them to eliminate, so successful housebreaking depends on patience, consistency, supervision and positive reinforcement. The goal is to build good habits from the very beginning. For more information about positive training see my article Positive Dog Training: The Science, Ethics & Proven Results. 
 
Instead of punishing accidents, focus on preventing them and rewarding your puppy every time it eliminates in the correct place. Every successful trip outside strengthens the habit you want, while punishment only creates fear, damages trust and often causes puppies to hide when they need to eliminate. For more information about the consequences of punishment see our first book Blueprint To A Happy Dog. 
 
One of the keys to success is taking your puppy outside frequently. Puppies should be taken out first thing in the morning, before bedtime, after eating or drinking, after naps, after play sessions, after leaving their crate or confinement area, and whenever they begin sniffing, circling or showing signs they need to go. In the early stages, taking your puppy out every 15 minutes while awake helps prevent accidents before they happen.
 
Each potty break should follow the same routine. Use a leash, take your puppy to the same elimination area every time, and use a consistent cue such as "Outside." When your puppy finishes eliminating, calmly praise it while it's going, then immediately reward it with treats, play and affection once it has finished. If your puppy doesn't eliminate, return inside for a few minutes while maintaining supervision before trying again.
 
Teaching your puppy to ring a bell at the door is another helpful communication tool. By gently encouraging your puppy to touch the bell before every trip outside, many puppies quickly learn to ring it on their own when they need to go out.

​Close supervision is essential throughout the housebreaking process. Until your puppy is completely reliable, it should always be within sight when loose in the house. 

​Close supervision is essential throughout the housebreaking process. Until your puppy is completely reliable, it should always be within sight when loose in the house. When supervision isn't possible, use an appropriately sized crate or a safe exercise pen. Some puppies adapt well to crate training, while others are more comfortable with passive paper training in a larger puppy-proofed area. Choose the method that best suits your individual puppy. For more information about crate training see my article How To Crate Train A Puppy & Why A Crate Is Only One Option. 
 
If you catch your puppy having an accident, calmly interrupt with your outside cue and immediately take it outdoors. Never punish accidents. Punishment creates stress, anxiety and fear while making house training more difficult. If accidents continue or return after your puppy has been successful, consult your veterinarian to rule out medical conditions such as urinary tract infections or other health problems before assuming it is strictly a training issue.
 
A few simple management techniques can also make housebreaking easier. Feed regular meals rather than leaving food available all day, offer water on a schedule, avoid food and water shortly before bedtime, provide appropriate chew toys and enrichment, and keep a record of accident-free days. Tracking progress makes it easier to gradually increase the time between bathroom breaks as your puppy becomes more reliable. For 50 canine enrichment options see my article entitled Canine Enrichment: Best Options For Mental Stimulation & Boredom Prevention. 
 
Every puppy learns at a different pace. Some are house trained within a few weeks, while others require several months. Consistency, patience and positive reinforcement are the keys to long-term success.
 
References 

(R1) Dunbar, Dr. Ian. Housetraining. James & Kenneth Publishers, 1986.
(R2) Dunbar, Dr. Ian. Housetraining Supplement. James & Kenneth Publishers, 1986.
(R3) International Animal Studies Behavior Course, 1994.
(R4) Pryor, Karen. clickertraining.com/node/289.
 
Photo by Norma Jeanne Laurette

​Artificial intelligence and robotics are developing rapidly. Technologies that once seemed like science fiction are beginning to appear in hospitals, businesses, public spaces and homes. Humanoid robots are being developed to assist us and carry out work that's repetitive, dangerous or physically demanding. As robots become more capable and affordable, they will eventually become part of everyday life for many families. But what will that mean for our dogs? A robot will eventually be able to fill a food bowl, feed our dogs treats, open doors, monitor our dogs while we're away, provide entertainment and even take them for walks. But while these eventualities may be convenient, we need to remember that many of the things we do for our dogs are much more important than chores, they are opportunities to build our relationships.

​​Dogs need food, water, shelter and exercise, but their emotional and social needs are just as important. A walk is not only a way to exercise a dog, it's an opportunity to explore the world together. Training is not just a way to teach cues and signals, it's communication. Playing together, grooming, cuddling, training and spending time together all contribute to the relationship between dogs and their people. These everyday interactions build trust, confidence, security and a stronger human/canine bond, at least they do when benevolent leadership and positive training are involved. This is why we should ask an important question whenever we choose to let technology perform a task for us. Just because a robot can do something for us, should it? Automating a repetitive household chore may give us more free time, however, automating the experiences that build our relationships with our dogs could have very different consequences. For more information about meeting your dogs needs see my article Emotional Fulfilment For Dogs: How To Keep Your Dog Happy & Emotionally Balanced. 

​​This doesn’t mean technology has to be bad for our dogs, quite the opposite. New technology can provide useful tools for responsible dog guardianship. Cameras can allow us to monitor our dogs when we're away, smart collars can provide information about activity and location, automated feeders will be convenient and interactive devices can provide enrichment when used responsibly. Technology can also help us recognize changes in behaviour that require our attention. The important difference is that technology should support responsible guardianship, not replace the relationship itself. A camera can let us know our dog is pacing but it can't replace the comfort, companionship and understanding we provide when we are with our dog.

​There's another issue that deserves our attention, and that's how dogs will react to robots? A robot doesn’t move, sound, behave or smell like a person. Some glide quietly across the floor, quickly change direction, emit mechanical sounds, flash lights or perform movements that are unfamiliar to our dogs. A dog that's never encountered a robot could find the experience fascinating, confusing or frightening depending on the dog. Some dogs might investigate, while many are likely to bark, growl, hide, attempt to escape or even bite or attack the robot. This is especially important for dogs that are already fearful with new people, objects, sounds or movements. Instead of just bringing a robot into the home and expecting a dog to get used to it, guardians will need to introduce this unfamiliar technology gradually and carefully. For more information about socialization see my article entitled How To Socialize A Puppy Or Dog: The Key To Successful Dog Training & Behaviour Development. ​

​Desensitization means introducing something gradually, at an intensity that does not cause a fear response. Your goal is to prevent overwhelming your dog. For example, your dog could first see a robot from a distance while it remains completely still. Once your dog is relaxed, one at a time, you can gradually introduce small changes such as movement, sounds or lights. Your dog should remain below threshold at all times, which is the point at which fear or reactivity begins. If your dog becomes frightened, you've increased the criteria too quickly.​​ 

Counter-conditioning is usually used in tandem with desensitization. Instead of just teaching your dog to tolerate a robot, you can help it develop a positive emotional association with it. The appearance, movement, sights and sounds of the robot can be paired with something your dog likes, such as favourite treats, play or other rewarding experiences. With repetition and carefully managed exposure, the robot will begin to predict good things  instead of something frightening. These principles are scientifically proven in positive behaviour modification and will become increasingly useful as unfamiliar technologies enter our homes and communities. For more information about desensitization and counter conditioning see our first book Blueprint To A Happy Dog.

​Researchers developing robots have begun using learning principles used in positive dog training, including reward-based learning, shaping, targeting and other training techniques that motivate and reward desired behaviours. In other words, techniques developed through the study of animal training are now helping researchers teach robots. For more information about positive training see my article Positive Dog Training: The Science, Ethics & Proven Results. 

​​​The biggest concern isn’t that robots will become a normal part of our lives, it's that convenience could gradually replace interaction. If a robot feeds our dogs, plays with them, let's them in and out, entertains them and takes them for walks, we could unintentionally give up many of the daily experiences that strengthen the human/canine bond. Technology might save time however, some moments should never be replaced because they're necessary to maintain our relationships with our dogs.

​​No matter how sophisticated artificial intelligence becomes, a robot cannot replace the relationship between a dog and the person who loves it. It can't experience the satisfaction of teaching new behaviour through positive training. It can't replace human touch or the comfort of a person the dog trusts when it's frightened. It can't share the excitement of exploring a new trail, playing a favourite game or relaxing together after a long day. Technology should make responsible dog guardianship easier when it's appropriate to do so, but it should never become an excuse to be less involved in our dogs’ lives. For more information about meeting our dogs needs see my article entitled Emotional Fulfilment For Dogs: How To Keep Your Dog Happy & Emotionally Balanced.

​Robots will eventually become as ordinary as smartphones and other technologies that were once considered futuristic. We don’t need to fear that future, but we should enter it with our eyes wide open. We can use technology to assist us, to monitor our dogs, enrich their lives and improve safety, but we should only use it when it benefits our dogs overall wellbeing. We need to continue our walks, training sessions, games, grooming, cuddle time and quiet moments together because they are necessary to creating and nurturing our bond. Our dogs don’t need us to be technologically advanced, they need us to be present.

​Artificial intelligence and robotics will dramatically change the way we live, but they should never change our relationships with our dogs. Technology will be able to perform useful tasks however, the relationship between us and our dogs is built through shared experiences, communication, trust and affection.

The future doesn’t have to be a choice between technology and our dogs, we can have both, as long as our priority remains on ensuring that we only use technology to allow us more time with those we love, including our dogs.